2018 3rd Quarter Crochet Along

We are gearing up to start our 3rd Quarter Crochet Along for 2018! If you've never participated in a CAL, it is a community project where we all work together on the same pattern. This quarter's pattern has already been voted on and we are going to be doing "Selma." Not every Crochet Along you'll encounter is done the same way. So this post's purpose is to inform you of everything you need in order to join. 

If you have done one of my CALs before, you can pretty much skip this post. If this is new to you, you have a lot of reading to do! Please make sure you don't skip any of it. I tend to spend a lot of time answering the same questions, which I've tried to make sure are all answered in this post. So please read through it before asking. But if you do end up with questions, you can ask them on this post.

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MATERIALS

  1. 325-350 yards of size 10 thread
  2. 2.00mm crochet hook
  3. Blocking materials 
  4. The pattern ("Selma" by Grace Fearon)

Please read through these notes pertaining to each of the materials listed above.

  • Your hook size should complement your personal crochet gauge. If you find your work to be too tight, go up a size or two. If you find it too loose, go down in size. This is very important. We want you to be happy with your finished piece. And if the experience is not enjoyable, you may lose your motivation to finish. It is recommend that if you do not know what your preferred size hook is, that you work PART 1 of the CAL using the recommend size listed above, and then adjust accordingly. This may mean you might have to work PART 1 more than once. 
  • Your required yardage will depend heavily on what size hook you end up working with. Most people find a 1.75mm hook to be comfortable when working with size 10 thread. However, not all size 10 threads are created equal: some are thinner, and some are thicker. Once you've matched your hook size to your thread of choice and also your gauge, you might find yourself using less or even more yardage than I do. I personally use a 2.25mm hook because my tension is very tight. If you are ever curious about how much yardage I use, you can find the exact measurements on any of my projects here on my Ravelry project page. I usually take the time to go back and add the weight (g) of the piece, and then I convert that to the exact yardage (y and m).
  • Not everyone blocks their work the same way. Depending on how you block, you will need different blocking materials. Please do not skip this step. I cannot stress enough to you how important it is to block your finished work. Not only does it refine your stitches, but it creates a much more even look. Your opinion of the piece will change dramatically if you block it. You can see my personally preferred method of blocking down this page where I have linked a video you can watch.
  • In order to participate, the only additional thing you need is the pattern. It does not matter in what form you have the pattern (individual pattern, ebook, or book). If you have the pattern, you can follow along just fine. However, one thing that is provided by me as an extra resource during Crochet Alongs is a full picture tutorial. In order to obtain this, you must have purchased (or will purchase) the individual pattern through Ravelry. This is the only way to obtain the photo tutorial. If you already have purchased it sometime in the past directly from that page, you are set. Your pattern will be automatically updated to include the tutorial according to the schedule listed below further down the page. If you own the pattern in some other form, you can choose to purchase the individual pattern through Ravelry right now while it is on sale for 50% off. 
  • If you are going to purchase the pattern right now, please sign in to your Ravelry account first. I am not responsible for lost emails or lost patterns. If you are a registered Ravelry user, you will never lose your pattern. It will be in your Ravelry account forever. If you do not register or accidentally purchase while you are not signed in, you alone are responsible for your pattern. You will receive update emails according to the schedule, but you must have provided an accurate email address. I cannot troubleshoot this problem for you if you do not follow the steps I have recommended here. {If you purchased while you were not signed in but you do have an account, simply click the link in the email that was sent to you with your pattern purchase and then click "add to library" after you have made sure you are signed in. Then the pattern will be saved to your library.}

SCHEDULE

The way we do our Crochet Alongs is rather simple. The pattern will be broken up into several parts and then we will work only the scheduled rounds according to the dates listed below. On each day, I will update the Ravelry pattern to include the new part of the tutorial and if you purchased the pattern from there, you will automatically receive an email telling you to update your files in your Ravelry library. You don't have to wait for the email, you can simply follow along in our group and wait for each of my announcements. As soon as I post, you should be able to update your file in your Ravelry library.

Each part of the CAL will be released between 10-11am EST according to the schedule below. This gives me a 1 hour buffer in case I run into snags during upload. On the dates below you will receive an email from Ravelry with a link to update your pattern files to include the parts of the photo tutorial released on the appropriate days. 

  • August 6th = TODAY! Introductory post. Pattern discount (50% off) begins.
  • August 13th = Part 1 (rounds 1-8) Pattern returns to full price.
  • August 17th = Part 2 (rounds 9-15)
  • August 20th = Part 3 (rounds 16-20)
  • August 24th = Part 4 (rounds 21-25)
  • August 27th = Part 5 (rounds 26-29) Finished! 

ADDITIONAL NOTES

  • Please join our Facebook group! You can ask questions, post progress pictures, and share your finished work! You will receive the fastest help by asking in our group.
  • You do not have to work at the same pace. If you get behind, don't worry. Finish when you're ready. The idea of a Crochet Along is that since we are all working together, we can often support each other through the experience. If you choose to work faster or slower, you will lose out on this benefit, but you should still be able to come out on top.
  • If you have never worked any of my patterns, you will find this to be an challenge. I strongly suggest you work one or two of my free patterns first to become familiar with the way I write patterns. Most of my patterns are complicated, but the text itself isn't. I attempt to write my patterns with extreme clarity. If you follow my instructions to the letter, you will progress. Don't make assumptions about what I may mean, I try to be quite literal. But if you still get stumped, ask! 
  • Block your finished piece. Do not skip this step. See the video below for my blocking method.

New Pattern: "Inara"

This pattern is probably one of my favorites. It's not overly complicated or challenging and it has a very clean look. I know sometimes this has to do with the color I choose and how well I blocked it, but the pattern itself is also very fine.

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I really enjoyed working this type of motif again and also incorporating lots of tall stitches around the center to give it almost a sunburst effect.

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When we moved into our new house last month, I took the effort to combine all the leftover skeins of thread that I'd had sitting around--and there were a lot. In doing this, I was able to create a few full-size skeins of various colors. It's not ideal because you can end up using different dye lots, but I did not notice any significant color difference with this one at least. I used about 200-250 yards of Aunt Lydia's classic crochet size 10 in the color "peacock."

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If you're familiar with my patterns, you should not have any trouble with this one and it should work up pretty quickly for you. There are a few decreases around the center (the tall V's) that you might find tricky only because they are taller stitches and some people find them cumbersome to work, but the effect is gorgeous. It creates an almost ruffled look. 

You can purchase this pattern through Ravelry using the appropriate button below (highly recommended) or use the black buttons to purchase directly from me. All single new patterns are 50% off during the first 24-hours. 

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New Pattern: "Ceres"

I recently received a large box filled with vintage thread from a friend of mine. I saw 2 spools of this beautiful blue and knew I had to use it immediately on a new pattern. However, I didn't realize that I would run out! This pattern is bigger than my average size, and I never know how big they will be when I begin them. However, since I already have a lot of thread, and a lot of partially-used spools, I was able to find a few leftovers in a strikingly similar color. They match so well you really can't tell, especially not from the pictures alone.

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"Ceres" turned out to be 42 rounds and about 18-inches in diameter. If you've been paying attention, you might have noticed I've been using more space-themed names. This makes #4: Cassini, Orion, Antares, and Ceres. I definitely plan to use more.

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If you're uncomfortable with taller stitches, I will warn you that this one does utilize TRTRs. If you look closely at the pictures, you can see an entire round of TRTRs that create a spoke-like effect around the center. I really like the look of them in this pattern, especially how the "yarn overs" create a twisted look to the stitches.

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For this pattern, I used 73g / 510y of size 10 thread. You will need between 500-550 yards, depending on your tension and the hook size you prefer to use. I am still using a 2.25mm because of my very tight tension. 

This pattern is 50% off until 10:30am EST tomorrow, July 15th, 2018. I recommend you purchase it through Ravelry using the correct button below. But if you cannot purchase through Ravelry, you may purchase it directly from me using either of the black buttons. 

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New Free Pattern: "Willa"

This is not a new pattern so much as it's a new 'free' one. I used to sell this pattern but then took it off the market so I could reformat it and then share it for free. This is one of the very first patterns I designed, and as such it's not at the same level of my current ones. It's very plain (in my opinion) and not a challenge for the most part. So I am releasing it for free.

"Willa"

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Important Note

This pattern was designed and written by me, Grace Fearon. Do not copy or distribute any part of this page (pattern and pictures) without express permission from me. Please only link directly to this page. 

If you do work this pattern, please consider adding your project to the projects page on Ravelry (using the green 'r' button right here): 

Pattern Details

Finished size: 11-inches
Thread: size 10, 200-225 yards
Hook: 1.75mm
Terminology: U.S. terms
Level: 'beginner'

Stitches & Terms

  • SLST = slip stitch
  • SK = skip
  • CH = chain
  • SC = single crochet
  • HDC = half double
  • DC = double crochet
  • TC = triple crochet
  • CSDC = chainless starting double crochet
  • Puff stitch = (yarn over, place hook in stitch, yarn over, draw up a loop) three times, yarn over, draw through all loops on hook
  • V-stitch = DC, CH 3, DC
  • Shell = 2 DC, CH 3, 2 DC
  • Picot = ch4, slst in fourth ch from hook, ch1

Pattern Notes

  • Join all rounds with a SLST to the first stitch of the round, unless otherwise indicated.
  • If a round begins with a "CSDC" you may choose to work a CH 3 instead. It will always count as the first DC of the round unless otherwise noted.
  • I recommend crocheting over your starting thread as you work the beginning rounds.
  • Pattern repeats are marked with an asterisk (*).
  • For discussion and support for any of my patterns, join our Facebook group! 
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"Willa"

CH 9 and join with a SLST to form a circle.

ROUND 1 = CH 1, 18 SC in circle. Join. [18 SC]

ROUND 2 = (CH9, SC in the fourth ch from hook, HDC in each of the next two ch stitches, DC in each of the next three chain stitches, skip two SC from round 1, SLST into the next stitch) six times. Your last SLST will be into where you started this round. [6 points]

ROUND 3 = SLST up to and into the first ch3 space at the tip of the first point, CH 1, SC in same space, CH 15, *SC in next ch3 space at tip of next point, CH 15* around. Join. [6 SC, 6 spaces]

ROUND 4 = SLST into first space, CH 1, 15 SC in same space, *15 SC in next space* around. Join. [90 SC]

ROUND 5 = CSDC, HDC in next stitch, SC in each of the next 11 stitches, HDC in next stitch, DC in next stitch, *DC in next stitch, HDC in next stitch, SC in each of the next 11 stitches, HDC in next stitch, DC in next stitch* around. Join. [12 DC, 12 HDC, 66 SC]

ROUND 6 = CH 1, SC in first stitch, *SC in next stitch* around. Join. [90 SC]

ROUND 7 = CSDC, CH4, skip next 2 stitches, *DC in next stitch, CH 4, sk next 2 stitches* around. Join. [30 DC, 30 spaces]

ROUND 8 = SLST into first space, CH 1, 5 SC in same space, *5 SC in next space* around. Join. [150 SC]

ROUND 9 = CSDC, HDC in next stitch, SC in next stitch, HDC in next stitch, DC in next stitch, *DC in next stitch, HDC in next stitch, SC in next stitch, HDC in next stitch, DC in next stitch* around. Join. [60 DC, 60 HDC, 30 SC]

ROUND 10 = CH 1, SC in first stitch, *SC in next stitch* around. Join. [150 SC]

ROUND 11 = (CSDC, CH 3, DC) in first stitch--first v-stitch made, skip next 2 stitches, CH 3, SC in each of the next 3 stitches, skip next stitch, SC in each of the next three stitches, CH 3, skip next 2 stitches, DC in the next stitch, CH 5, DC in the next stitch, skip next 2 stitches, CH 3, SC in each of the next 3 stitches, skip next stitch, SC in each of the next 3 stitches, CH 3, skip next 2 stitches, *v-stitch in next stitch, skip next 2 stitches, CH 3, SC in each of the next 3 stitches, skip next stitch, SC in each of the next 3 stitches, CH 3, skip next 2 stitches, DC in the next stitch, CH 5, DC in the next stitch, skip next 2 stitches, CH 3, SC in each of the next 3 stitches, skip next stitch, SC in each of the next 3 stitches, CH 3, skip next 2  stitches* around. Join. [6 v-stitches, 12 DC, 6 ch5 spaces, 24 ch3 spaces, 72 SC]

ROUND 12 = SLST into first space, CSDC, (DC, CH 3, 2 DC) in same space, CH 8, sk next 2 spaces, 10 TC in next ch5 space, CH 8, sk next 2 spaces, *shell stitch in next v-stitch space, CH 8, sk next 2 spaces, 10 TC in ch5 space, CH 8, sk next 2 spaces* around. Join. [6 shell stitches, 60 TC, 12 ch8 spaces]

ROUND 13 = SLST into first shell space, CSDC, (DC, CH 3, 2 DC, CH 3, 2 DC) in same space, CH 6, (TC in next TC, CH 1) nine times, TC in next TC, CH 6, *(2 DC, CH 3) twice in next shell space, 2 DC in same shell space, CH 6, (TC in next TC, CH 1) nine times, TC in next TC, CH 6* around. Join. [36 DC, 60 TC, 54 ch1 spaces, 12 ch6 spaces]

ROUND 14 = SLST into first space, CSDC, (DC, CH 3, 2 DC) in same space, CH 3, shell in next space, CH 6, sk next ch6 space, (SC in next ch1 space, CH 3) eight times, SC in next ch1 space, CH 6, sk next ch6 space, *shell in next ch3 space, CH 3, shell in next space, CH 6, sk next ch6 space, (SC in next ch1 space, CH 3) eight times, SC in next ch1 space, CH 6, sk next ch6 space* around. Join. [12 shell stitches, 54 ch3 spaces, 54 SC, 12 ch6 spaces]

ROUND 15 = SLST into first space, CSDC, (DC, CH 3, 2 DC) in same space, CH 5, sk next ch3 space, shell stitch in next shell space, CH 5, sk next ch6 space, (SC in next ch3 space, CH 3) seven times, SC in next ch3 space, CH 5, sk next ch6 space, *shell stitch in next shell space, CH 5, sk next ch3 space, shell stitch in next shell space, CH 5, sk next ch6 space, (SC in next ch3 space, CH 3) seven times, SC in next ch3 space, CH 5, sk next ch6 space* around. Join. [12 shell stitches, 42 ch3 spaces, 18 ch5 spaces, 48 SC]

ROUND 16 = SLST into first space, CSDC, (DC, CH 3, 2 DC) in same space, CH 5, SC in next ch5 space, CH 5, shell stitch in next shell space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space, (SC in next ch3 space, CH 3) six times, SC in next ch3 space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space, *shell stitch in next shell space, CH 5, SC in next ch5 space, CH 5, shell stitch in next shell space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space, (SC in next ch3 space, CH 3) six times, SC in next ch3 space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space* around. Join. [12 shell stitches, 24 ch5 spaces, 36 ch3 spaces, 48 SC]

ROUND 17 = SLST into first space, CSDC, (DC, CH 3, 2 DC) in same space, CH 6, SC in next ch5 space, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch5 space, CH 6, shell in next shell space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space, (SC in next ch3 space, CH 3) five times, SC in next ch3 space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space, *shell stitch in next shell space, CH 6, SC in next ch5 space, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch5 space, CH 6, shell in next shell space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space, (SC in next ch3 space, CH 3) five times, SC in next ch3 space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space* around. Join. [12 shell stitches, 12 ch6 spaces, 12 ch5 spaces, 30 ch3 spaces, 6 ch1 spaces, 24 DC]

ROUND 18 = SLST into first space, CSDC, (DC, CH 3, 2 DC) in same space, CH 6, SC in next ch6 space, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch1 space, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch6 space, CH 6, shell stitch in next shell space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space, (SC in next ch3 space, CH 3) four times, SC in next ch3 space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space, *shell stitch in next shell space, CH 6, SC in next ch6 space, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch1 space, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch6 space, CH 6, shell stitch in next shell space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space, (SC in next ch3 space, CH 3) four times, SC in next ch3 space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space* around. Join. [12 shell stitches, 48 DC, 12 ch1 spaces, 24 ch3 spaces, 12 ch5 space, 12 ch6 spaces, 48 SC]

ROUND 19 = SLST into first space, CSDC, (DC, CH 3, 2 DC) in same space, CH 6, SC in next ch6 space, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch1 space, CH 6, SC in next ch1 space, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch6 space, CH 6, shell in next shell space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space, (SC in next ch3 space, CH 3) three times, SC in next ch3 space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space, *shell stitch in next shell space, CH 6, SC in next ch6 space, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch1 space, CH 6, SC in next ch1 space, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch6 space, CH 6, shell in next shell space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space, (SC in next ch3 space, CH 3) three times, SC in next ch3 space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space* around. Join. [12 shell stitches, 18 ch6 spaces, 12 ch1 spaces, 12 ch5 spaces, 18 ch3 spaces, 48 SC, 48 DC]

ROUND 20 = SLST into first space, CSDC, (DC, CH 3, 2 DC) in same space, CH 6, SC in next ch6 space, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch1 space, CH 6, SC in next ch6 space, CH 6, SC in next ch1 space, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch6 space, CH 6, shell stitch in next shell space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space, (SC in next ch3 space, CH 3) twice, SC in next ch3 space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space, *shell stitch in next shell space, CH 6, SC in next ch6 space, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch1 space, CH 6, SC in next ch6 space, CH 6, SC in next ch1 space, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch6 space, CH 6, shell stitch in next shell space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space, (SC in next ch3 space, CH 3) twice, SC in next ch3 space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space* around. Join. [12 shell stitches, 24 ch6 spaces, 12 ch1 spaces, 12 ch5 spaces, 12 ch3 spaces, 48 SC, 48 DC]

ROUND 21 = SLST into first space, CSDC, (DC, CH 3, 2 DC) in same space, CH 6, SC in next ch6 space, CH 6, SC in next ch1 space, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch6 space, CH 6, SC in next ch6 space, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch1 space, CH 6, SC in next ch6 space, CH 6, shell stitch in next shell space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space, SC in next ch3 space, CH 3, SC in next ch3 space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space, *shell stitch in next shell space, CH 6, SC in next ch6 space, CH 6, SC in next ch1 space, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch6 space, CH 6, SC in next ch6 space, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch1 space, CH 6, SC in next ch6 space, CH 6, shell stitch in next shell space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space, SC in next ch3 space, CH 3, SC in next ch3 space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space* around. Join. [12 shell stitches, 30 ch6 spaces, 12 ch1 spaces, 12 ch5 spaces, 6 ch3 spaces, 48 SC, 48 DC]

ROUND 22 = SLST into first space, CSDC, (DC, CH 3, 2 DC) in same space, (CH 7, SC in next ch6 space) twice, CH 7, SC in next ch1 space, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch6 space, (2 DC< CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch1 space, (CH 7, SC in next ch6 space) twice, CH 7, shell stitch in next shell space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space, SC in next ch3 space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space, *shell stitch in next shell space, (CH 7, SC in next ch6 space) twice, CH 7, SC in next ch1 space, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch6 space, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch1 space, (CH 7, SC in next ch6 space) twice, CH 7, shell stitch in next shell space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space, SC in next ch3 space, CH 5, sk next ch5 space* around. Join. [12 shell stitches, 36 ch7 spaces, 12 ch1 spaces, 12 ch5 spaces, 48 SC, 48 DC]

ROUND 23 = SLST into first space, CSDC, (DC, CH 3, 2 DC) in same space, (CH 7, SC in next ch7 space) three times, CH 7, SC in next ch1 space, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch1 space, (CH 7, SC in next ch7 space) three times, CH 7, shell stitch in next shell space, sk next 2 ch5 spaces, *shell stitch in next shell space, (CH 7, SC in next ch7 space) three times, CH 7, SC in next ch1 space, (2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC) in next SC, SC in next ch1 space, (CH 7, SC in next ch7 space) three times, CH 7, shell stitch in next shell space, sk next 2 ch5 spaces* around. Join. [12 shell stitches, 48 ch7 spaces, 12 ch1 spaces, 48 SC, 48 DC]

ROUND 24 = SLST into first space, CSDC, DC in same space, (CH 7, SC in next ch7 space) four times, CH 7, SC in next ch1 space, (CH 7, SC in next ch7 space) four times, CH 7, *2 DC in each of the next 2 shell spaces, (CH 7, SC in next ch7 space) four times, CH 7, SC in next ch1 space, (CH 7, SC in next ch7 space) four times, CH 7* around, 2 DC in next shell space. Join. [60 ch7 spaces, 24 DC, 54 SC]

ROUND 25 = SLST into the first space and across to the middle of the same space, CH 1, SC in same space, *CH 8, SC in next space* around, CH 4, DTR in first stitch of round--last ch8 space made. Join. [60 SC, 60 spaces]

ROUND 26 = CH 1, SC in same space, CH 8, *SC in next space, CH 8* around. Join. [60 SC, 60 spaces]

ROUND 27 = SLST into first space, CH 1, (4 SC, picot, 4 SC) in same space, *(4 SC, picot, 4 SC) in next space* around. Join. [480 SC, 60 picots]

Cut thread, fasten, weave in all ends. Block appropriately. 
 

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New Pattern: "Antares"

I always say with each new pattern that the newest one tends to be my favorite--this one is no exception. "Antares" started out like all the others: with no plan or direction, but ended up turning out beautifully. 

I used 52g of size 10 thread, so a tiny bit more than a single ball, so the estimate for this pattern is 350-375 yards. You may end up using less, especially if you have a tight tension and use a smaller hook. I used a 2.25mm hook which does mean I use a little more thread. 

Depending on your tension, your finished piece should be about 15-inches in diameter. I constantly find myself going back to this color--'ecru' or 'natural.' It photographs extremely well and it shows the stitching perfectly against this backdrop. It's also elegant timeless, in my opinion. 

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I would not say that this pattern is very challenging. The tallest stitch used in this pattern is a DTR (yarn over 3 times). I think if you've ever worked any of my patterns before, you will find this average difficulty. 

This pattern is 50% off during the first 24-hours. You can purchase it below using any of the following links. The pattern returns to full price at 1:30pm EST on July 1st. 

I highly recommend purchasing through Ravelry (the pink/red button) because it will be saved to your Ravelry account (make sure you are signed-in) and you will never lose access to your file. Also, if this pattern is chosen for a future CAL, you will have free access to the CAL documents, which are only available to those who purchase through Ravelry.

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