New Pattern: "Samara"

This is the last pattern that I designed when we were living in our old place. We recently bought a house and the transition sort of put a snooze on my business. Now that we are fully settled, I am ready to get back into full-swing. 

This pattern is not too challenging in itself, but reading the text of it can be. The repeats are very long, so it is easy to lose track. I would suggest breaking each round down, by copying it into a text editor, and putting each section on its own line break. Then, you can go through each repeat line-by-line. I would also suggest only stopping between rounds. If you stop within a round, you might lose your place. Because of the long repeats, the text of each round is very long. So the PDF is 15 pages long. I hope you don't find this too inconvenient.

"Samara" is 42 rounds and uses about 500-550 yards of size 10 thread. I used 73g (511 yards) and it came out to about 16-inches in diameter. Even though the suggested hook size is 2.00mm, you should always use the hook size that best complements your tension. This means that if your tension is looser than mine, you will need a smaller hook; and if it is tighter than mine, you will need to size up.

All new individual patterns are 50% off during the first 24-hours. This discount is automatically applied when you add the pattern to your cart. Please consider adding your finished project to Ravelry so others can see your work. You can also join our Facebook group for help, to share your work, or to just discuss any of my patterns.

You can purchase the pattern via Ravelry using the button below, or you can purchase it through my website here by using the black buttons.

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New Pattern: "Kalani"

We just moved into our new house, so I haven't had much time to work on anything. I finally got my computer setup so I could publish this pattern for you. It's been ready for almost a week now! 

"Kalani" is 43 rounds and requires about 400 yards of size 10 thread. Using my 2.25mm hook, I used about 52g / 385y of DMC traditions thread. I was gifted this lovely thread through a yarn exchange. It's very soft, but a teeny-tiny bit thinner than what I'm used to. I did enjoy working with it.

Lately, I have been experimenting with trying larger and repetitive motifs. I used to find repetition in patterns to be boring, but I am now enjoying having a bit of monotony to break up the challenge. 

To get your copy of this pattern, you can purchase it through Ravelry using the button below. Or you can purchase it directly from me using the black buttons. As usual, all new individual patterns are 50% off during the first 24-hours.

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New Pattern: "Illyria"

I know I say this every time I publish a new pattern, but I think this one is my favorite. With each new pattern I try to challenge myself to go bigger and try new things. This one was very fun to design and came together quickly and expertly. I hope you enjoy working it as much as I did designing it.

I used a 2.25mm hook (because it works best with my tight gauge) and 75g / 347y / 317m of Valley Cotton 5/2 mercerized perle thread. This is a thicker thread, but it comes on a cone and I really enjoy working with it. Also, this is my favorite color. The pictures don't accurately show how gorgeous this shade is. It's a little darker than depicted here.

I'm hoping that sometime soon I'll be able to do three rounds of pineapple motifs instead of two. I really want to see how far I can manage a motif without burning out. 

All new patterns are 50% off during the first 24-hours. You can purchase it through Ravelry by using the Ravelry button (recommended!) or use the black buttons below to purchase directly from me. If you purchase from my website, you have 24-hours to download and save your files to your computer.

"Illyria" Digital Pattern PDF [English]

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"Illyria" Digital Pattern PDF [Russian]

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New *Free* Pattern: "Mable"

This little pattern is dainty yet elegant. I love the way it turned out, even though I lost inspiration many times along the way. 

Important Note

This pattern was designed and written by me, Grace Fearon. Do not copy or distribute any part of this page (pattern and pictures) without express permission from me. Please only link directly to this page. You may print the pattern for convenience, but please do not distribute.

Languages

This pattern is available in multiple languages:

• English (scroll down to view)
• Russian (download PDF here)

Pattern Details

Finished size: 11-inches
Thread: size 10, 150-200 yards
Hook: 2.00 mm (or preferred hook size for your gauge)
Terminology: U.S. terms
Level: 'intermediate'

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Stitches & Terms

• SK = skip
• SLST = slip stitch
• CH = chain
• SC = single crochet
• HDC = half double crochet
• DC = double crochet 
• TC = triple crochet
• CSDC = chainless starting double crochet (improved)
• BP = complete the stitch around the back post of the stitch indicated
• FP = complete the stitch around the front post of the stitch indicated 
• Cluster = holding back the last loop of all stitches in cluster set, crochet the number of stitches into the stitch or space indicated, then yarn over and pull through all loops on hook
• Popcorn = complete the number of stitches into the stitch or space indicated, then drop the loop from the hook; place the hook in the first stitch of the popcorn set, grab the dropped loop, and pull it through
• Sc2tog = insert hook in stitch or space indicated, draw up a loop, insert hook in next stitch or space indicated, draw up another loop, yarn over, draw through all loops on hook
• Small picot = ch 3, slst in 3rd ch from hook, ch 1

Pattern Notes

• Join all rounds with a SLST to the first stitch of the round, unless otherwise indicated.
• If a round begins with a "CSDC" you may choose to work a CH 2 instead. CSDC or CH 2 will always count as the first DC of the round. If coupled with a FP-SLST or BP-SLST, it is the first FPDC or BPDC of the round.
• I recommend crocheting over your starting thread as you work the beginning rounds.
• Pattern repeats are marked with an asterisk (*).
• Not all stitches that are skipped will be detailed with a ‘sk’ instruction. When it says to ‘sk’ a stitch, it is meant to clarify where you work your next stitches, when it would be otherwise confusing without the instruction. Other skipped stitches that are not detailed are understood by the instructions where to work your next stitches. 
• For discussion and support for any of my patterns, join our Facebook group! 

"Mable"

CH 6. Join to form a circle.

Round 1 = CSDC, 15 DC into the circle. Join. [16 DC]

Round 2 = FP-SLST around first stitch, CSDC—first FPDC made, CH 1, *FPDC around next stitch, CH 1* around. Join. Mark the 2nd stitch of this round for round 5. [16 FPDC, 16 spaces]

Round 3 = SLST into first space, CH 1, 2 SC in same space, *2 SC in next space* around. Join. [32 SC]

Round 4 = CH 1, SC in each of the first 2 stitches, CH 3, *SC in each of the next 4 stitches, CH3* around, SC in each of the next 2 stitches. Join. [32 SC, 8 spaces]

Round 5 = CH 1, SC in each of the first 2 stitches, SC in next space, FP-5TC-popcorn around marked stitch of round 2, SC in same space of round 4 as last SC made, SC in each of the next 2 stitches, CH 3, *SC in each of the next 2 stitches, SC in next space, sk next stitch of round 2 after last popcorn made, FP-5TC-popcorn around next stitch, SC in same space of round 4 as last SC made, SC in each of the next 2 stitches, CH 3* around. Join. [48 SC, 8 popcorns, 8 spaces]

Round 6 = CH 1, SC in each of the first 2 stitches, sc2tog using the next 2 SC (skipping the popcorn between them), SC in each of the next 2 stitches, (SC, CH 3, SC) in next space, *SC in each of the next 2 stitches, sc2tog using the next 2 SC (skipping the popcorn between them), SC in each of the next 2 stitches, (SC, CH 3, SC) in next space* around. Join. [48 SC, 8 sc2tog, 8 spaces]

Round 7 = CSDC, (CH 1, sk next stitch, DC in next stitch) twice, sk next stitch, (CH 1, DC) three times in next space, *(CH 1, sk next stitch, DC in next stitch) three times, (CH 1, DC) three times in next space* around, CH 1. Join. [48 DC, 48 spaces]

Round 8 = SLST into first space, CH 1, SC in same space, SC in next space, 2 SC in each of the next 4 spaces, *SC in each of the next 2 spaces, 2 SC in each of the next 4 spaces* around. Join. [80 SC]

Round 9 = CH 1, SC in first stitch, CH 3, sk next stitch, *SC in next stitch, CH 3, sk next stitch* around. Join. [40 SC, 40 spaces]

Round 10 = SLST into first space, CH 1, SC in same space, CH 3, *SC in next space, CH 3* around. Join. [40 SC, 40 spaces]

Round 11 = SLST into first space, CH 1, 3 SC in same space, *3 SC in next space* around. Join. [120 SC]

Round 12 = CSDC, *DC in next stitch* around. Join. [120 DC]

Round 13 = CH 1, BPSC around first stitch, *BPSC around next stitch* around. Join. [120 BPSC]

Round 14 = CSDC, DC in each of the next 5 stitches, (DC, CH 3, DC) in next stitch, *DC in each of the next 14 stitches, (DC, CH 3, DC) in next stitch* around, DC in each of the next 8 stitches. Join. [128 DC, 8 spaces]

Round 15 = CH 1, SC in each of the first 5 stitches, CH 4, sk next 2 stitches, SC in next space, CH 4, sk next 2 stitches, *SC in each of the next 12 stitches, CH 4, sk next 2 stitches, SC in next space, CH 4, sk next 2 stitches* around, SC in each of the next 7 stitches. Join. [104 SC, 16 spaces]

Round 16 = CH 1, SC in each of the first 3 stitches, sk next 2 stitches, (CH 5, SC) in each of the next 2 spaces, CH 5, sk next 2 stitches, *SC in each of the next 8 stitches, sk next 2 stitches, (CH 5, SC) in each of the next 2 spaces, CH 5, sk next 2 stitches* around, SC in each of the next 5 stitches. Join. [80 SC, 24 spaces]

Round 17 = CH 1, SC in first stitch, sk next 2 stitches, 6 DC in each of the next 3 spaces, sk next 2 stitches, *SC in each of the next 4 stitches, sk next 2 stitches, 6 DC in each of the next 3 spaces, sk next 2 stitches* around, SC in each of the next 3 stitches. Join. [32 SC, 144 DC]

Round 18 = BP-SLST around next stitch, CSDC—first BPDC made, BPDC around each of the next 8 stitches, CH 3, BPDC around each of the next 9 stitches, sk next SC, sc2tog using the next 2 stitches, sk next SC, *BPDC around each of the next 9 stitches, CH 3, BPDC around each of the next 9 stitches, sk next SC, sc2tog using the next 2 stitches, sk next SC* around. Join. [8 sc2tog, 144 BPDC, 8 spaces]

Round 19 = CH 1, SC in each of the first 9 stitches, (SC, CH 3, SC) in next space, SC in each of the next 9 stitches, FP-3HDC-cluster around next sc2tog, *SC in each of the next 9 stitches, (SC, CH 3, SC) in next space, SC in each of the next 9 stitches, FP-3HDC-cluster around next sc2tog* around. Join. [8 clusters, 8 spaces, 160 SC]

Round 20 = SLST in next stitch, CH 1, SC in same stitch and in each of the next 8 stitches, (SC, CH 3, SC) in next space, SC in each of the next 9 stitches, CH 7, sk next 3 stitches, *SC in each of the next 9 stitches, (SC, CH 3, SC) in next space, SC in each of the next 9 stitches, CH 7, sk next 3 stitches* around. Join. [160 SC, 8 ch3 spaces, 8 ch7 spaces]

Round 21 = CSDC, (CH 2, sk next stitch, DC in next stitch) four times, CH 2, sk next stitch, (DC, CH 3, DC) in next space, (CH 2, sk next stitch, DC in next stitch) five times, 7 DC in next space, *(DC in next stitch, CH 2, sk next stitch) five times, CH 2, sk next stitch, (DC, CH 3, DC) in next space, (CH 2, sk next stitch, DC in next stitch) five times, 7 DC in next space* around. Join. Mark the 2nd stitch of this round for round 23. [152 DC, 80 ch2 spaces, 8 ch3 spaces]

Round 22 = SLST into first space, CH 1, 2 SC in same space, 2 SC in each of the next 4 spaces, (2 SC, CH 3, 2 SC) in next space, 2 SC in each of the next 5 spaces, sk next DC, BPDC around each of the next 3 DC, (BPDC, CH 3, BPDC) around next DC, BPDC around each of the next 3 DC, sk next DC, *2 SC in each of the next 5 spaces, (2 SC, CH 3, 2 SC) in next space, 2 SC in each of the next 5 spaces, sk next DC, BPDC around each of the next 3 DC, (BPDC, CH 3, BPDC) around next DC, BPDC around each of the next 3 DC, sk next DC* around. Join. [192 SC,  64 BPDC, 16 spaces]

Round 23 = SLST in next stitch, CH 1, SC in same stitch, FPDC around marked stitch of round 21, (sk next stitch of round 22, SC in next stitch, FPDC around next stitch of round 21) four times, sk next stitch of round 22, SC in next stitch, (SC, CH 3, SC) in next space, (SC in next stitch, FPDC around next stitch of round 21, sk next stitch of round 22) five times, SC in next stitch, sk next stitch, SC in each of the next 4 stitches, (SC, CH 3, SC) in next space, SC in each of the next 4 stitches, sk next stitch, *SC in next stitch, sk 9 stitches of round 21 from last FPDC made, FPDC around next stitch, (sk next stitch of round 22, SC in next stitch, FPDC around next stitch of round 21) four times, sk next stitch of round 22, SC in next stitch, (SC, CH 3, SC) in next space, (SC in next stitch, FPDC around next stitch of round 21, sk next stitch of round 22) five times, SC in next stitch, sk next stitch, SC in each of the next 4 stitches, (SC, CH 3, SC) in next space, SC in each of the next 4 stitches, sk next stitch* around. Join. [192 SC, 80 FPDC, 16 spaces]

Round 24 = SLST in next FPDC, CH 1, FPSC around same stitch, (small picot, FPSC around next FPDC, SC in next stitch, FPSC around next FPDC) twice, small picot, sk next 2 stitches, SC in next space, CH 4, SLST in 3rd ch from hook—point made, HDC in 4th ch from hook, SC in same space, (small picot, FPSC around next FPDC, SC in next stitch, FPSC around next FPDC) twice, small picot, FPSC around next FPDC, sk next 2 stitches, SC in each of the next 4 stitches, (SC, small picot, SC) in next space, SC in each of the next 4 stitches, *FPSC around next FPDC, (small picot, FPSC around next FPDC, SC in next stitch, FPSC around next FPDC) twice, small picot, sk next 2 stitches, SC in next space, CH 4, SLST in 3rd ch from hook, HDC in 4th ch from hook, SC in same space, (small picot, FPSC around next FPDC, SC in next stitch, FPSC around next FPDC) twice, small picot, FPSC around next FPDC, sk next 2 stitches, SC in each of the next 4 stitches, (SC, small picot, SC) in next space, SC in each of the next 4 stitches* around. Join. [80 FPSC, 128 SC, 8 HDC, 8 points, 56 picots]

Cut thread, fasten off, weave in all ends, and block.

New Pattern: "Pearl"

I don't have much to say about this pattern. I wanted to create something that had a uniform center and then a lacy border. I thought I would start with a few rows of SC, but I don't particularly like how monotonous that is. So instead I broke it up with rows of BP stitches.

Unfortunately, with this type of stitching, there can be an obvious seam. You can tell from my pictures that I didn't adjust to make up for it, when I probably should have. There are several methods you can use to create a hidden seam, so just pick your favorite and let me know how well it work!

This pattern includes several colored diagrams for tricky sections that you might find very helpful. It is 38 rounds and come out to about 15-inches in diameter, using about 350-400 yards of size 10 thread. 

You can purchase this pattern through Ravelry by clicking the Ravelry link below (which I recommend so that you can save your pattern to your Ravelry library) or you can use the 2 links below to purchase the file directly through my website if you can't use Ravelry or Paypal.

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